--- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, "Pat" <ciansmom@...> wrote:
>
> Hello Everyone,
>
> Winter blues have me way down.  I need to start doing something.  I
> purchased my own home two years ago.  It's about 30 years old.  I've
> wanted to make my home an elven inspired retreat from everyday life.
>


Go look at the "LOTR-inspired" house of Cat herself.

http://www.alleycatscratch.com/blucher/

>>  I've
wanted to make my home an elven inspired retreat from everyday life.



I'll second the earlier comments about paint.  There are a lot of book out
there about faux painting.  Also you're local store like Home Depot teach
classes. You don't have to buy all the fancy bit and special paint.  You can
do a lot with just a sponge and plastic wrap.  The stencils I used in my
place were just made from milla folders and packing boxes.



When the walls are bad, or you don't know what kind of paints... after
you've sanded, hit the walls with a base coat of something called Kilzs.  It
covers everything eventually.  It's a bit more expensive than regular paint,
but it covers a multitude of mistakes from the pervious home owners.



>>My bed room is painted cream.  The rug is an off white burber with
flecks of blue, green, reds, ect... How can I make it look like
Rivendell...on a very tight budget.



If you're not going to paint to whole thing right now... stencil.  Less is
more


>>Also my spare room/office has kitchen cabinets along the top wall.
And it's a 70's nightmare.  It still has it's pooh brown panneling and
orange shag rugs.



Best bet is to yank that paneling... but another option is to sand/rough up
the paneling, slam kilz on it, then paint regularly.  IF you're unsure about
doing this, do just one wall... so in worse case, you just pull one wall.
It's not perfect, but it's better than trashed paneling.



Just a few exampled of what I did when I had my house...
http://www.alleycatscratch.com/blucher/



-Cat-







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I feel more confident cutting slinky fabrics like charmeuse, chiffon,
etc. by first pinning the fabric to an under-layer of waste tissue.
This stabilizes the grain and supports it fully once the pieces have
been cut out.
I happen to have a large stash of waste tissue from years ago when I
worked at a fabric store and for a while we were allowed to go through
pattern discards. *alas* when those days ended! But they run 99 cent
sales often enough that you can get it easily enough. Look for a
pattern that has large sheets of mostly unprinted tissue, like a huge
wedding dress, one of those that has a little tiny fitted bodice and
the most enormous skirt gathered onto it. Those skirt panels are big
squares.
You could get away with almost any uncut pattern tissue since it's
going to be underneath your fabric, I just prefer the minimum of extra
lines.

Lay the waste tissue (which you have ironed smooth) on your cutting
table, then your fabric, very carefully aligning and straightening the
grain. Pin it as much as you need to so it behaves. Then arrange the
pattern pieces, pin those down very thoroughly. I use a lot more pins
on slinky fabrics than I do on regular cottons. When you cut, keep the
scissors blade right down flat on the table, don't lift the fabric any
more than you absolutely have to. Keep the pieces pinned into their
sandwiches right up until you actually sew them into the garment.

I agree with Cat that the bias on the charmeuse is going to be droopy,
but I would only flat-pin the fitted bodice areas. If the skirt area
has bias edges, I would hang-pin them. This is from experience at the
costume shop making chiffon, charmeuse, china silk, etc. stuff
especially where bias was sewn to straight. The bias wants to relax,
and if you carefully support a bias edge to a straight edge, what
you'll end up with when the garment does hang, is funky ripples on the
bias side as it tries to relax, but is held up by the seam. So pin the
bodice areas down to about the high hip flat so the match points
match, then hang the thing up, (pin the top to your dress form, or
clip it to a hanger) and let the bias relax a little as you pin the
skirt seams together. You'll even up the bottom edge in a fitting
anyway, as you mark the hem on the wearer.

When you sew, don't let the seams draw up. The fabric may be soft
enough that the tension of the thread retards the fabric's movement
behind the needle, if that makes sense. A crisp fabric will hold its
own, and draw the threads along with it as it's fed along under the
needle, but a soft fabric will bunch up. So you may have to keep the
fabric taut by holding it with both hands, one before and one after
the needle. Let the feed dogs do the actual moving of the fabric.
Adjust this tension in your hands so it's just enough but not too much.
Instead of back stitching at the ends of seams, use a shortened
stitch. Going down to 1 mm stitches will keep your seam from coming
undone, but it will be easier to take out if you have to, and it won't
make a bulky place at the end of the seam. If you really want to back
stitch, do it 1/2" in from the cut edge of the fabric, like where the
other seam line will cross the one you are making.

If the neckline has a long v, support it with a strip of selvage or
twill tape so it doesn't stretch out. This has been discussed in more
detail, I forget how long ago but you should be able to search it out.
Hope this helps! Above all, take your time, don't work on it if you
are getting frustrated, take a break. Make it a relaxing project, and
admire the lovely results as you go along!

Da Cat wrote:
"When the walls are bad, or you don't know what kind of paints... after
you've sanded, hit the walls with a base coat of something called Kilzs.  It
covers everything eventually.  It's a bit more expensive than regular paint,
but it covers a multitude of mistakes from the pervious home owners."

Yes, and make sure you get LATEX Kilz. The oil-based stuff smells evil and
you don't need it for walls.

FWIW, I think paneling can look nice with a couple coats of paint over it.

~ M.
==================
~ Twinkle, dammit! ~

If you are going to paint paneling, you will need put several coats of Kiltz
over it before painting or the paint will peal off. Have fun! Kemper

   "The history of western philosophy is that it is all a series of footnotes to
Plato" Albert North Whitehead










----- Original Message ----
From: Maureen Conklin <morvren@...>
To: LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 9:33:17 AM
Subject: RE: [LR_Cos] Not costume related by bed room related

     Da Cat wrote:
  "When the walls are bad, or you don't know what kind of paints... after
  you've sanded, hit the walls with a base coat of something called Kilzs.  It
  covers everything eventually.  It's a bit more expensive than regular paint,
  but it covers a multitude of mistakes from the pervious home owners."

  Yes, and make sure you get LATEX Kilz. The oil-based stuff smells evil and
  you don't need it for walls.

  FWIW, I think paneling can look nice with a couple coats of paint over it.

  ~ M.
  ==================
  ~ Twinkle, dammit! ~




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

A great way to spruce up a floor whether it be hardwood or wood, you can draw
and paint a "rug" on it. If you want it picture specific,  then grid off  a
picture into 1" squares and then your floor into 1 foot squares and draw the
picture in the grid, it will make your painting much easier.
Kemper

   "The history of western philosophy is that it is all a series of footnotes to
Plato" Albert North Whitehead












[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Adding to Alyson's input.. I recently did my kitchen floors with the technique
Alyson mentions HOWEVER ..I went this route for durability. One coat of
Kilz,(well actually its a one coat type paint), in Bison a choco brown (Kilz is
great..no wood imperfections bleed through,and elimiates any bacteria that
causes mold which bleeds through), then stenciled random leaves and vines
surrounding my dining table..THEN for the durability and wash factor I MUST have
with kids, I used Min-Wax Polyurethene Fast drying medium gloss sealer, 2 coats,
being careful with my stencils, its best to dab them with the foam paint brush
dipped in the sealer, a coat or two..and I do mean DAB..you go swipin and
swishin it will spread your design all over like a Monet. once your certain
youve covered your design, ( usually you can see because of the gloss factor)and
its dry, then go slapping the sealer on.
   I know..I talk to dang much..
   After readin my post...I think im more a South Lothlorien elf...cause I sure
do have a thick drawl...
   Zin




Alyson <tolkienscholar@...> wrote:
   A great way to spruce up a floor whether it be hardwood or wood, you can draw
and paint a "rug" on it. If you want it picture specific,  then grid off  a
picture into 1" squares and then your floor into 1 foot squares and draw the
picture in the grid, it will make your painting much easier.
Kemper

   "The history of western philosophy is that it is all a series of footnotes to
Plato" Albert North Whitehead












[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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> I also wanted to ask:
> Can anyone reccomend a metallic silver THREAD that you can use in
the
> machine and will not make you want to go insane?

have you tried coats and clark metalic thread?  thats what I've been
usng, and my Roberta (my machine) tends to like it....  but I just
have to play with the tension before....

--- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, Bryan Stewart <bstewart@...> wrote:
> [snip]  I am going to be using McCalls 4889
> http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M4889.htm  as the basis for the
> dress.  [snip]  What would you think of pinning the sections
together flat, then hanging them to let them relax, then repin and
baste before sewing.

Sounds like a lot of extra unnecessary work. Just hang pin the areas
below the fitted waist/hip area, you'll do just fine. And don't let
the seams draw up as you are sewing.

> The pattern as sold laces in
> the back, and only the bodice is lined. [snip]

Buttons and loops sounds like a good alternative, or sew little brass
warm window rings behind the edges of the fabric instead of making
eyelets in it. In either case, do make sure you have enough
interfacing to support the charmeuse, and a light bone on either side
to prevent scrunching up of the edge.
I much prefer the warm window rings and do not put eyelets through
anything if I can help it. I think eyelets/grommets are ugly, and too
often they fail and damage the fabric. If I *must* lace up an edge
through the fabric, I make small buttonholes with plenty of
interfacing and lace through those instead. The warm window rings
(look in the home dec section) are small and neat, strong, easy to sew
on, and if one should happen to fail you haven't damaged the garment.
If you want to really spread out the stress, sew them to a sturdy
grosgrain ribbon first, and then sew the ribbon to the garment.

If you haven't pre-washed your chiffon do so or plan to have it
drycleaned.  If the chiffon is silk you don't want the iron off.  Even
if it is synthetic, test a scrap to see if it melts or does strange
things.  If you are using a metallic thread in the mix, forget the
iron off.  I prefer the water soluable because you get all the bits
out.  But you may have to wash it twice to get all the residue out.
If you don't it stays stiff, and chiffon is supposed to be flowing.
Tear away gets into the mechanics of the sewing machine.  It also
doen't always want to tear away and you end up with stitches being
pulled funny and bits of tear away in the sewing which will show in
the chiffon.  Wash your chiffon, cut out the sleeve pattern piece or
neck piece.  Do your embroidery and beading with the machine or by
hand using the watersoluable underneath.  If you accidentally rip or
melt out a piece, just cut out a replacement to fit the hole in the
watersoluable stablizer, and pin into place.
Good luck.
Johanna Breijer
--- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, "wormiegrrl" <wormiegrrl@...>
wrote:
>
> Just a quick question about the upper sleeve embroidery.
>
> If I go to embroider it myself on some chiffon, is it best to use a
> backing fabric/stabilizer?  And if so, what works for a light,
> delicate fabric like chiffon?  Tear-away, iron-off, or soluble?  I've
> never used this before on any project so am at a bit of a loss.
>
>
> Kiran
>

tulpeque wrote:
> Hi, I am looking for a pattern for Legolas Rivendell Council Velvet.
> You have a description for it but I am not that creative.  Does anyone
> have a pattern for Legolas Rivendell Council Velvet.
>

	 The only Velvet thing that Leggy wears in the council is that cloak.
There is no pattern for it because it's really just two lengths of
velvet overlapped so that there is a split in the back for his quiver
and an offset opening in the front. About the only sewing is a short bit
at the top of the back and to a cowl sort of neck. It's very hard to
describe that neck: its almost like Galadriel's hood on her Silverlode
cloak, but there's no actuall hood on Leggy. Mostly you need to take
some cheap fabric and play around with a bias chunk of it. It's not
fashionable enough to get used on commercial patterns, I'm afraid.

	 But we do have a pattern page in general
<http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/makingem/Patterns.htm> and there
will be a spring update published soon.

	 -Judy

--- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, "Johanna Breijer" <KPut@...>
wrote:
>
> The easiest way to sew with metallic threads is to have the thread
> in the bobbin.
> put all of mine in the bobbin with the good side of the fabric
> facing down gets me the best results.  Try a couple of different
> threads for the top of the machine, and play with the tension

I am confused.
Do you mean, put metallic thread in the bottom bobbin, and have
fabric good side down so that metallic threads end up on top in the
end, and use another (all purpouse?) thread for the top--which
become the bottom in the end>?? I am so confused.

One thing I just started doing was playing around with tension, and
when I start a new set of stitches, normally I would pull at the top
tread and the bobbin thread a tad to give me the tail so that the
thread does not come out of the needle eye as I begin--anyways if I
do this with this thread, it acts as a precursor to the
shredding..so I remove the thread from the tension pull some through
at the back of the needle, and then bring it back into the tension
and then pull it taught at the end again to pull out any left over
slack, this is annyoing, but less so than the shredding and head
banging afterwards..

I can try this as you reccomend..

I'm using (now) "Top Quality Sulky Metallic Washable, Dry Cleanable,
Silver, Metallic Foil/Polyester Core, Economy Large Spool" $8-9 per
spool

If you use the metallic thread from coats and clark ( well, any brand really)
purchase the needles with a larger eye for your seing machine, because the
metallic tends to seperate from the thread it's wrapped around and causes ball
ups in the thread. I think they're called embroidery needles, but I'm not 100%
sure, I just know they have the larger eyes :-)
   If that makes any sense :-)
    -Liv



________________________________________________________________________

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 16:44:12 -0000
From: "Jess"
Subject: Re: OT - Fabric Sewing Tips


> I also wanted to ask:
> Can anyone reccomend a metallic silver THREAD that you can use in
the
> machine and will not make you want to go insane?

have you tried coats and clark metalic thread? thats what I've been
usng, and my Roberta (my machine) tends to like it.... but I just
have to play with the tension before....







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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have successfully dyed polyester. What has helped is vinegar and salt.  I do
not use a washing machine unless I absolutely have to but use an old bathtub
outside, or mine if it is yucky out but am carefully for stains. You rewash your
fabric with vinegar, about the same amount one would use for bleach, and NO
fabric softener. I usually put salt, 1/4 a cup per 5 yards or so, in my hot
water after the clothes have been dried. And soak the fabric for a while. Then I
take out my fabric and add the dye to the water. Then add my fabric. I then add
a little bit of vinegar, maybe a Tablespoon. You have to play around wiht the
vinegar and salt as each fabric varies on porosity. Also, the fabric will need
to be washed in cold water only, or dry-cleaned, when the outfit is complete. I
have dyed polyester for years. You can also soak your fabric in  black tea for a
bit before adding it to the dye; however, the tanins darken a light shade and
this is not good for lighter colours. Good
  luck!

   "The history of western philosophy is that it is all a series of footnotes to
Plato" Albert North Whitehead










----- Original Message ----
From: nyving <nyving@...>
To: LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 1:47:51 PM
Subject: [LR_Cos] Dyeing polyester

     Hello

  Is it possible to dye Polyester fabric?
  I would like my mint green to become a little darker.

  Karin






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Also the airbrush fabric paints work well too.  You have a choice of
pearlescent, opaque(lots of solid pigment)tanslucent which would
probably be your best bet to just darken or intensify the colour.
You can use a spray bottle(the ones from the green house that you
pump and then it maintains a continuous spray until the pressure
goes down are great)a paint brush or roller, or a spung to apply the
paint.  They carry it a Micheals, and art stores.
Johanna
--- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, Judy Mitchell <judymitch@...>
wrote:
>
> nyving wrote:
> > Hello
> >
> > Is it possible to dye Polyester fabric?
> > I would like my mint green to become a little darker.
>
>  In general, poly doesn't like to be dyed after the factory,
although
> some people have gotten good results (most don't, but there are,
> obviously exceptions). Usually it doesn't work well in the washing
> machine, but you might try the stovetop method, I think the hotter
temps
> work a little better. There is also the option (depending on your
> yardage) of painting it with dye-na-flo which is a fabric 'paint'
that
> will work on poly (since Jonatha used it brilliantly on my Bilbo
vest
> fabric). I believe the Dye-na-flo was available at Hancock Fabrics?
>
>  What ever you do, test a bit first to see if the dye/paint
will take.
>
>  -Judy
>

Johanna Breijer wrote:
> Also the airbrush fabric paints work well too.


	 Dye-na-flo will also work in airbrushes. it's very liquid and you thin
it out more with water. You can mix the colors together, like dye, as
well if you want different shades (Jonatha blended a couple reds for
me). After it's done, she heat set it in the dryer.

	 -Judy

I amtrying to figure out velvet to order for the cloak and I
canstillnot figure out how the cloak was constrcuted if the pile is
normal all the way arond the cloak and there are no seams and it opens
in the front is there fabric wide enough to create this affect.  If
anyone has made a cloak similar to this could you please pleasehelp me
I may not be seeing something right or something but I am really confused.

For the pile to be running in the same direction all around, there
have to be shoulder seams, either along the top of the shoulder, or
perhaps raglan style.
Sarah

--- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, "Hannah"
<queen_apailana_of_naboo@...> wrote:
>
> I amtrying to figure out velvet to order for the cloak and I
> canstillnot figure out how the cloak was constrcuted if the pile is
> normal all the way arond the cloak and there are no seams and it
opens
> in the front is there fabric wide enough to create this affect.  If
> anyone has made a cloak similar to this could you please pleasehelp
me
> I may not be seeing something right or something but I am really
confused.
>

Sarah wrote:
> For the pile to be running in the same direction all around, there
> have to be shoulder seams, either along the top of the shoulder, or
> perhaps raglan style.

	 And since, like Gladdy's Silverlode cloak, it's another ruana/foldover
the shoulder cloak with open sides, it can't have a raglan edge. So...
either there is seam across the shoulder that doesn't show up in the
dark velvet enabling the nape to go in the same direction front and
back, or the nap goes up one side and down the other. Pesonally, I'd
choose a seam across the shoulders.


Hannah wrote:
>  If
> anyone has made a cloak similar to this could you please pleasehelp me
> I may not be seeing something right or something but I am really confused.

	 Julia made the SilverLode Cloak, which is very similar. you might look
at her page on it to see what she did.
<http://www.jedielfqueen.com/lotr/costumes/Galadriel/cloaks.htm>



	 -Judy

http://www.simplicity.com/designNavigator.cfm?design=5098



view "C"



The sleeve seam goes all the way into the neck.



-Cat-



-----Original Message-----
From: LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com [mailto:LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Alyson
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 7:58 AM
To: LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [LR_Cos] Re: Arwen Narsil/Midnight forging cloak



What are reglan seams? I am new to sewing and this is a new term for me.
Thanks! Kemper

   "The history of western philosophy is that it is all a series of footnotes
to Plato" Albert North Whitehead










----- Original Message ----
From: Judy Mitchell <judymitch@...>
To: LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 1, 2006 7:56:37 AM
Subject: Re: [LR_Cos] Re: Arwen Narsil/Midnight forging cloak

     Sarah wrote:
> For the pile to be running in the same direction all around, there
> have to be shoulder seams, either along the top of the shoulder, or
> perhaps raglan style.

        And since, like Gladdy's Silverlode cloak, it's another
ruana/foldover
the shoulder cloak with open sides, it can't have a raglan edge. So...
either there is seam across the shoulder that doesn't show up in the
dark velvet enabling the nape to go in the same direction front and
back, or the nap goes up one side and down the other. Pesonally, I'd
choose a seam across the shoulders.


Hannah wrote:
>  If
> anyone has made a cloak similar to this could you please pleasehelp me
> I may not be seeing something right or something but I am really confused.

        Julia made the SilverLode Cloak, which is very similar. you might
look
at her page on it to see what she did.
<http://www.jedielfqueen.com/lotr/costumes/Galadriel/cloaks.htm>



        -Judy


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>>Can you steam marks out of cotton stretch velvet?  I didn't notice it
when I was cutting out, but now that my gown is assembled, I can
easily see a long, dark line running horizontally across the front
panel of my dress.  It's almost right across the stomach area which is
NOT a place I wanted to emphasize!  It looks like it's been caused by
the fabric being folded at that point or something

The answer is maybe.... and if you have a scrap with the same fold in, test
on it.

Try just steaming and ironing on the wrong side, put a fluffy town on the
velvet side.

If that doesn't work... and the cotton nap is short enough (here's where you
really want to test first)  You may be able to push the nap around on the
front with a brush (resistant to the steam - or you get melted plastic).  A
fine comb might also help you brush up the nap.

Lots of steam for both methods... be careful... if you get it out... let the
area cool and dry before moving on  to the next spot.

A problem may be that the fabric is actually worn there, then you're out of
luck... try steaming first before worrying.

-Cat-

>>The cuff on Bilbo's coat that he wears to his Birthday Party... ;)
Yvette

Bravo... give the lady a cupie doll!!!


Folks look at the picture for clues...  That rich velvet... cotton velvet.
Means Human or Hobbit.

Then you've got a quilted brocade, very rich.  Green and gold...  Bilbo.


Interesting thing to notice... a short cut on the cuffs.... it's folded up.
Piping is just on the edge (what we're seeing at the top of the piping is
another layer of the brocade.

-Cat-

belluthien wrote:
> The cuff on Bilbo's coat that he wears to his Birthday Party... ;)


	 yeah!!! Yvette got it. Amazing detail on the cuff. it's quilted: just
like the lapels. and there's that bit of roping that was dyed to match.
It looks like piping, but I don't think it is simply because looking at
some of the details of the mini-me exhibit where the roping also
outlines the CF - it's not on the edge, it actually crosses the line so
it has to be roping that was applied on after the fact. On the cuff here
it just looks like it was put on better in the "ditch".

	 -Judy

I purchased some Pros-Aide adhesive from Motions Picture FX Co and am
wondering how I apply the liquid.  My plan is to attach human hair
chin braids for my Capt. Jack Sparrow costume.  The last time I tried
to fasten these chin braids on, spirit gum just wouldn't hold them.

Does anyone have experience with this Pros Aide?  All replies should
be direced to "swimarcher@..."

Thank you,
Mark

jules_emt2 wrote:
> I am hoping someone can identify the braid or weave design used in the
> cord bandolier I need to re-create for my Corsair costume, pics in
> Jules folder.  I am using cotton plumb line dyed brown which so far is
> the closest I've found with the tension needed, but I am lost after
> the first two open rows below the heavy jewelry design.

	 wow, that's so hard to see in there. My first thought, from looking at
the 'leader belt up glancing' was that it looked like round braiding,
like you do on lanyards. But looking at 'cord bandolier 1', at the
beginning of it, it mostly looks like finger weaving!
<Mhttp://www.northwestjournal.ca/sash.html> scroll halfway down (ignore
the directions it's for a different result) and look at the pic of one
side woven: doesn't that look a lot like the top of the bandolier? I
can't find a good site online with instructions though.

	 -Judy

The last time I tried
> to fasten these chin braids on, spirit gum just wouldn't hold them.
>

I personally like Pros aide better, but I haven'ttried them with the
chin braids, I too used sprit gum, but pros aide tends to stay "tacky"
so it might work, for this.... just use it like sprit gum, apply it,
then let it get a little dry (tacky) then stick it on, hold it for a
min, then it should hold.  try not to glue your fingers to your chin
though! ;)

Initially, I gave myself 6 months to complete this costume.  Long
enough, right?

Then I decided to use it for a presentation.  Cutting my time oh,
about four months.  So I've been embroidering like a fiend and
finally got the yoke piece finished last night and pinned on.  I'm
going insane.  Well, more so.  I've got a week to get the collar
pieces done, but at this point, they can get the general idea of the
outfit, with or without the collar.

http://rivendelldesigns.net/costumes/lotrcostumes/theoden_edoras/embr
oidery/green_surcoat_emb_yoke01.JPG

http://tinyurl.com/l947v

This is the full outfit, before I finished the other half of the
yoke.
http://rivendelldesigns.net/costumes/lotrcostumes/theoden_edoras/theo
den_edoras_brocoat03.JPG
http://tinyurl.com/oya7u

Sarah

--- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, "vibediva@..." <VIBEDIVA@...>
wrote:
>
> Can I ask you where you got the jump rings? Firemountain Gems? I am
working on Eowyn's riding/beacon belt and I think a few of these would
come in handy!
>
yeah I got them at firemountain gems.

cinema.fantasy wrote:
> I wanted to know if the Topps cards with the costume samples are truly
> tiny pieces of the original fabrics used for the represented costume.
> Any input on these cards would be great.

	 As far as we know, they are indeed tiny (thumbnail sized) swatches of
the fabric scrap (don't expect it was an actual costume cut up). Some of
them have been matched with garments on exhibit, for example Frodo's
coat, and they do match.

	 Although sometimes it makes me wonder a bit: my swatch of Frodo's Elven
tunic is an identical swatch match to Eowyn's GG Dress (Stable Dress)!

	 -Judy