http://www.dharmatrading.com/info/dyeing_wool.html

"Silk can be tub dyed with cold water using the same method as for cotton.
The colors on silk are not as predictable nor the same as on cotton. Mixed
colors tend to shift one way or another. But it is so easy compared to hot
dyeing that it is well worth trying. Soda ash will take away some of the
sheen of silk and can give silk more of a stonewashed appearance unless
exposure is limited. To avoid that, try the vinegar method below."

They suggest the Procion dyes for rayon, but they have those acid dyes for
wool and silk, too. I'd just call them up and ask about dyeing silk/rayon
velvet. 1-800-542-5227

~ M.

==================
~ Twinkle, dammit! ~

More info from http://www.dharmatrading.com/cgi-bin/faq.cgi?query=tub+dye

"Procion® MX - For painting or tub dyeing. Dyes the cellulose (cotton/hemp)
like the color chart. Often the protein(silk) comes out a different color,
especially colors with blue in them-most of the blue will be absent on the
silk- so for example, with #18 deep purple, you would get purple pile (the
rayon) and raspberry backing (the silk) on devore velvet. Very cool!!
Careful, soda ash is hard on the silk. Limit the time of exposure, or use
baking soda instead, and steam, microwave or simmer on the stove. Procion® H
-For painting. Dyes the cellulose and the protein the same color.
Acid Dye for Wool and Silk - For tub dyeing. Dyes the silk really well,
stains the cellulose a much lighter shade."

HTH! :-)

~ M.

==================
~ Twinkle, dammit! ~

Not sure if anyone else posted this or not but I found a silk brocade
that might work for the sleeves and trim for the BR dress.
http://www.gofabric.com/customer/product.php?
productid=16175&cat=249&page=4
Sarah

I almost exclusively use Dylon dyes, because they usually dye silks & wools the
same color as the cottons, linens, and rayons.  I use salt and baking soda for
all but wool -- salt and vinegar for wool.  They don't have nearly the range of
colors that Procion dyes offer, though, so I'm going to branch out.  Also,
there's a company in England (I could find the name if anyone wants) that will
ship to the US and sells dyes that only dye the silk part and others that only
dye the rayon part, so you could get very dramatic looks with burnouts (or with
silk/rayon brocades).


"Mentor, Nelly A." <nelly.mentor@...> wrote:
Well I already ordered the fiber reactive dyes from Dharma, though I
haven't opened the jars yet, I'd like to start testing out ideas this
weekend.

I wouldn't mind the two fibers taking color differently since it's
burntout velvet anyway.  It would give an interesting look.  I guess
I'll have to do 3 tests: cold water, hot water with vinegar and baking
soda (never heard of that one).  Thanks for the tips.

Nelly

silk- so for example, with #18 deep purple, you would get purple pile
(the
rayon) and raspberry backing (the silk) on devore velvet. Very cool!!
Careful, soda ash is hard on the silk. Limit the time of exposure, or
use baking soda instead, and steam, microwave or simmer on the stove.
Procion(r) H -For painting. Dyes the cellulose and the protein the same
color.
Acid Dye for Wool and Silk - For tub dyeing. Dyes the silk really well,
stains the cellulose a much lighter shade."



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distribution, disclosure, printing, copying, storage, modification
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>>Yeah, I want to try and go a little more accurate than some of the Ren
Faire garb that is out there. Thanks everyone for your help, it gave
me lots of ideas. I can't wait to get started on this dress, my first
non-LOTR or movie related dress!

Different fairs have different levels of accuracy.  However, if you get to
precise... it looks weird at a ren fair... since they take major liberties.

The Elizabethan costume page really lists a lot of great on line sources for
doing your research...

Two other books that that are yummy, though they cover more than just
Elizabethan... but are much less expensive that QEW Unlocked (...And are
required for the serious costume library if you do early period... Patterns
of fashion Volume 1 by Janet Arnold, $35.   Grinded drawings of pattern from
original garments.... and a sketch of what it looks like.
http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKCT0037.shtml   Intermediate to
Advance sewing by itself.

A book that's been called "Janet Arnold, Explained"... the Jean Hunissette
book of the same period, Period Costume for the Stage and screen, 1500-1800
http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKCT0039.shtml   $59  This tells
the theatrical shortcuts to use as well as how to do some of the historical
details.  If defines sewing terms, has watch points to warn you of where
things can go wrong when you're making the dress... and a beautify
illistrated section on how to fit a muslin to the Elizabethan shape.

At the library... also checkout fine art portraiture of the time for dress
details.


On the other hand, for those just wishing to get started with faire
clothing: http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKCT0020.shtml is a great
start.  It's also my all around favorite for folks to start altering
patterns on their own. You'll recognize a lot of the tips in our hobbit
section $15


Oh... one more thing, your ren fair fabrics... wash them about 3 times,
hard... to really make sure everything is shrunk so you have no qualms about
tossing it in the washing machine later.

If you're going to make a fancy upper class outfit out of expense fabrics...
when you're sure of your pattern... make up the whole thing in plainer
fabrics, like cotton velvet for an upper middle class costume.  Make in
completely and wear it to test drive it.

And before  you subject your body to the whole thing... corset train you
body a bit and practice moving around the house in the underpinnings.  The
corset does not need to be pulled tight... just pulled enough to change your
shape from oval to round... and give you a solid, smooth front.

**** For everyone ****  The previous 2 paragraphs go for anyone who is
making that style of an outfit for the first time... historical or fantasy.
You've got to make sure your under pinnings are working first and then your
outer layers.  But once you've created the Elizabethan set, you can make
fantasy as well as historical and stretch the years a bit.


-Cat-

Thanks! I wasn't counting on a mold that would last more than one
casting (although it certainly wouldn't hurt) nor do I need one that
can handle metal (I'm just not that sophisticated). I may still
have
to go with the silicon, however, since I recently discovered that
while 20 years in a basement does not prevent alginate
from doing its thing to perfection, it reacts with the epoxy. That
is,
the epoxy took all the detail and the mold survived the process, but
the finished piece was left with a sticky residue that doesn't
harden. :p I've gotten this far on materials I already had or
could
get for free, and was hoping to keep things cheap - $30 + shipping is
just outside of my budget right now, but I'll keep that website
in
mind.

lucewire2001 wrote:
> Can anyone give me some words of wisdom on how to sew straight trim
> onto a curve and get it to look neat and not pucker up all over the
> place?

	 well, it's like trying to put a square peg in a round hole - you're
going to have to fuss it. Unless it's a cotton trim or soemthing that
you can steam the heck out of and re-shape as you iron to ease around
the curves (and that's unlikely for a Requiem dress)....
	 You're going to have to just cope with a bunch of little teeny
pleats/tucks where the outside curves and the inside won't flatten. One
possibility is to run a basting line around the inside edge of the trim
and see if you can gather it and ease it around - try to ease it evenly.
Personally I prefer the small tucks (sometimes you can get the fabric to
ease itself a tad and that helps). Whatever method you choose, pin it
all in place first and then step back and look at it a couple of hours
later to see if you like how it comes out.

	 Sorry, there is no easy way to make a straight something curve unless
it's cut on the bias; it's always been a pain.

	 -Judy

Everything that Judy said and if your trim can handle the steam, after you hand
tack it on, I use a steam iron when the dress is on a dress form without
actually touching the trim give it a burst of steam, count to 5 then finger
press the trim smooth carefully, really helps it lay flat, but make sure before
you try it by testing on a small piece of trim and don't forget to wait those 5
seconds or you can burn your fingers!

" Round the ragged edges of the world I'll roam and the home of the wolf will be
my home"

I was looking at my Arwen and Aragorn barbie box today and I realised
taht the design at the top of the box (in gold) is the same as
the "trim" around the bottom of Eowyns riding dress cowel.  just
thought someone might find that useful, (I know when I get around to
doing this dress I'll find it usefull, then I don't have to spend
hours on the comp staring at the emb!) ;)

>Trains can be a real pain in crowds.  I have one on my Victorian ball
>gown. I put a small wrist strap on it for when I go out on the dance
>floor.  The trick is, don't put the strap at the end near the hem.  If
>you do when you lift it up you can see the underside of the skirt,
>which is not real attractive.  Put on the dress and pick up the train
>from the top near the back of knees.  Play with it until you find a
>spot where if looks to be a good practical length and has a nice
>drape.  Then sew on a pretty ribbon loop


If you don't want a loop hanging off the back of the dress when you have
the train down, here's a trick I used for a friend's wedding gown.  It
helps if you have a center back seam.  After I knew where the loop went, I
opened the seam about a half inch at that point.  The loop was sewn to the
seam allowance and was inside the skirt when the train was down.  When she
wanted to use it, we could just pull the loop out.

Florida Ann

Hi there! I got the dupion (as we say in the UK) and all my fabrics in
Broadwick Silks in London. Ngila and the makers did buy fabrics there
but this isn't the one they used. It was the best one I found as it's
ivory shot brown and looks salmon enough, but grey in some light!
Good, eh? ;)
The drape is not silk but pure viscose. I forund some grey silk velvet
but liked the viscose better. So, as you might have guessed, there are
no designs on it. But I was thinking I could embroider the design on
it with a silver thread, what do you think?

The belt id all dupion, but might remake it as I realise it was a
brocade after seeing some close-ups!

Closeups are in the folder named Little Devil.

Thanks for the comments! Have you got pics of your version? We could
compare notes... LOL

Es


> looks great!  where did you get the dupioni for the robe?  it really
> does look like the one Nigla used, (looking grey in one light and
pink
> in another)  and is the drape silk velvet?  (I made this exact
costume
> and couldn't find grey silk velvet to save my life!)  and do you
have
> c/u pics of your costume? (sorry love to see others work and pics
> answer more questions the I feel like i can ask w/o being bother
> some! ;) one big question though, did you do a design on the drape?
and
> if so how?  thanks and once again great work!

They are called Fibrecraft and their website is
http://www.fibrecrafts.com/fibrecrafts_homepage.htm
Look under Colour Crafts, chemical dyes, there is a PDF file to
print!
I have used DuPont AlterEgo and they are great!
I believe they will ship to US and elsewhere!

Es x

> I heard the DuPont dye brand has a line that does that.  They don't
> sell it in the US.  I'd like the company information if you don't
> mind.  Thanks.
>
> Nelly
>
>
>
> Also,
> there's a company in England (I could find the name if anyone
wants)
> that will
> ship to the US and sells dyes that only dye the silk part and
others
> that only
> dye the rayon part, so you could get very dramatic looks with
burnouts
> (or with
> silk/rayon brocades).

Smruti Shah wrote:
> hi everyone,
> I was hoping to embroider one of the Gondorian or Elvish emblems onto a
> T-shirt for a friend of mine.   I wondered if anyone knows where I might
> find a clear enough picture of it that I could size up and transfer onto the
> T-shirt.   Has anyone done this before with success?  I'm a novice to hand
> embroidery and would appreciate any advice!


	 Can you be more specific on which designs you want? We have a couple of
versions of the tree of Gondor in line-drawings at
<http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/Human/Gondor/tree-faramir-final_Kipar.gif>
and
<http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/Human/Gondor/white_tree_leaf_so.jpg>
and there are a number of the colorful emblems/heraldic devices that
Tolkien created at
<http://www.forodrim.org/gobennas/heraldry/heraldry.htm> although they
are small.

	 -Judy

cherchezunfemme wrote:
> hi Judy,
>
> I was thinking of the White Tree or even Luthien's devices (though
> those look a wee bit more complicated).  How would one transfer those
> designs to a shirt?  I thought I could transfer it to carbon paper
> and try to iron it on to a shirt (or to a scarf for that matter.)

	 depends on what you have available. First print it off the web <g> and
then take it to a copier and size it to whatever size you want. The old
ways were a)get hold of an opaque projector like they have at schools
and project it to taped fabric on the wall and then just trace it; or
b)buy some carbon paper (they sell packs of 'sewing transfer paper' that
comes in different colors. used to be used to transfer all those dots
and marks on the patterns to the fabric) and use a stylus to trace it
carefully onto your fabric.
	 Modernly now I think they have some special papers you can use in the
print and then iron it onto your fabric. Never tried them, don't know
how well they work/don't work (I know most commercial places won't let
you use that stuff in their copiers since it gunks them up badly).
	 Depending on the size of the fabric, I have actually taped muslin to a
piece of copy paper and run it through the copier where you put in
cardstock (so it goes straight through and doesn't roll over the bars)
and have copied photos straight onto the fabric for a quilt that way.
AFter the fabric sits for 24 hours, you want to press it with an iron
and a piece of paper (!) to set the ink into the fabric.

	 There may be other methods, these are the ones I'm sorta familiar with.

	 -judy

In a message dated 9/13/2005 3:54:20 PM Central Daylight Time,
judymitch@... writes:
Modernly now I think they have some special papers you can use in the
print and then iron it onto your fabric. Never tried them, don't know
how well they work/don't work
There are also some fabrics that work in a printer! I have some of the
cheaper stuff and it works pretty well. Trouble is, the one I have isn't really
washable :<(. So while it'd be good for a purse or pillow, I wouldn't use it for
a
tee shirt.

For transfers, I've used plain old tracing paper and then the carbon paper.
One suggestion: get a decent embroidery book and practice! I did the Tengwar
alphabet as a practice and it worked pretty well. I'd love to embroider the
design from the Gates of Moria onto something!

Good luck!


Eruwestial


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I try to speak simpler. The sheets of copper have been fixed with
glue and rivet(cup head), on support in skin. If you have other
questions you also ask to me. I will try to make of my best in order
to explain.

Gilraen
Onen i-estel Edain
U-chebin estel anim

--- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, "Mentor, Nelly A."
<nelly.mentor@i...> wrote:
> Gilraen,
>
> Did you ever find someone to help with your translation?  I was
just
> curious on finding out the details on how you pieced the gold
plates
> together? If not, I might have to resort to the Google language
> translator to converse with you, unless you happen to speak
French? :-)
>
> Nelly
>
>
>
>
*********************************************************************
*****
> This message and any attached documents contain information
> which may be confidential, subject to privilege or exempt from
> disclosure under applicable law.  These materials are solely for
> the use of the intended recipient.  If you are not the intended
> recipient of this transmission, you are hereby notified that any
> distribution, disclosure, printing, copying, storage, modification
> or the taking of any action in reliance upon this transmission is
> strictly prohibited.  Delivery of this message to any person other
> than the intended recipient shall not compromise or waive
> such confidentiality, privilege or exemption from disclosure as
> to this communication.
>
> If you have received this communication in error, please notify
> the sender immediately and delete this message from your system.
>
*********************************************************************
********

Excuse I have mistaken, are sheets of brass.

Gilraen
Onen i-estel Edain
U-chebin estel anim


--- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, dany_1954 <no_reply@y...> wrote:
> I try to speak simpler. The sheets of copper have been fixed with
> glue and rivet(cup head), on support in skin. If you have other
> questions you also ask to me. I will try to make of my best in
order
> to explain.
>
> Gilraen
> Onen i-estel Edain
> U-chebin estel anim
>
> --- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, "Mentor, Nelly A."
> <nelly.mentor@i...> wrote:
> > Gilraen,
> >
> > Did you ever find someone to help with your translation?  I was
> just
> > curious on finding out the details on how you pieced the gold
> plates
> > together? If not, I might have to resort to the Google language
> > translator to converse with you, unless you happen to speak
> French? :-)
> >
> > Nelly
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
*********************************************************************
> *****
> > This message and any attached documents contain information
> > which may be confidential, subject to privilege or exempt from
> > disclosure under applicable law.  These materials are solely for
> > the use of the intended recipient.  If you are not the intended
> > recipient of this transmission, you are hereby notified that any
> > distribution, disclosure, printing, copying, storage,
modification
> > or the taking of any action in reliance upon this transmission
is
> > strictly prohibited.  Delivery of this message to any person
other
> > than the intended recipient shall not compromise or waive
> > such confidentiality, privilege or exemption from disclosure as
> > to this communication.
> >
> > If you have received this communication in error, please notify
> > the sender immediately and delete this message from your system.
> >
>
*********************************************************************
> ********

>>Mom will
hate it cause I already have tons of mock-ups around that are just
collecting dust!  Think it's rag time for most of them

>>Some one needs to write an article about what to do with old mock-ups. :D

I only keep the final mockup.  I label them with my measurements at the time
it's made and label them.  If the mockup are just different on the sleeves,
just keep the sleeves or neckline change.

The bigger pieces that I'm ready to discard????  They become the scrap for
sleeves, necks, and cycle into doll clothing muslin.  I really know how to
reuse a sheet until it's scrap.

-Cat-

> I'm helping my friend make arwens red dress for halloween, and I
was
> wondering whether or not I could make it with just one dress,
rather
> than an overdress and underdress, if so, would it look much
different
> than it would with both layers?

I think the most significant difference would be forgoing the double
neckline effect, but I don't believe that is really the signature
aspect of the gown. The two-part sleeve, the contrast between the red
of the sleeves and the blue/black of the gown, and the use of gold
trim are what make this costume memorable. In fact, I feel the blood
red gown is one of the easiest LotR costumes to do in that respect,
since you don't need a great deal of accuracy to successfully
communicate the *idea* of the costume.

I've seen a number of original variations of Arwen's jumper
dresses,
often done in only one layer, and they always look lovely and very
recognizably Lord of the Rings. If you were to make a one-piece
version of the blood red dress, as long as you used the same colors,
everyone would know what it's supposed to be. It wouldn't be
exactly
like the one in movie, but people who aren't into researching
costumes probably wouldn't realize the difference anyway.

The finals, I keep as a pattern.  Make notes, fold it
nicely and stick it in a zip top bag, maybe even with
a picture if I have one.  Never know when that bodice,
or sleeve or skirt, etc. might come in handy again.
Would save me trouble of mocking it up all over again
later.

Everything else, yep, rags, or like you said, cut up
for use as smaller pieces of later muslins.

-Mel

--- elf_witchs_handmaid
<elf_witchs_handmaid@...> wrote:

> Or better yet, just ask here! Well, I'll ask, since
> I've woundered
> this for a bit myself; What dose every one do with
> their old mock
> ups? I cut the bigger bits and use them in smaller
> parts of currant
> mock ups, and am lucky that any rag that are made
> from this are use
> in our furniture shop (for wipeing up stain and
> glaze) And some of
> the shirt and pants I've made are now liveing a
> second life as over
> clothes for when we're doing work that we wouldn't
> want to wear our
> good clothes (Staining, painting, so on). But I know
> not every one
> is lucky enough to use there mock up in that way,
> so.... What do you
> do with them? :-)
>
> --- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, "earendilgrey"
> <Eponine_80@y...> wrote:
> > Yea.  I was going to do that with a few part of it
> anyway.  Mom
> will
> > hate it cause I already have tons of mock-ups
> around that are just
> > collecting dust!  Think it's rag time for most of
> them.  The dollar
> > table at Wal-Mart is great for this.
> >
> > Some one needs to write an article about what to
> do with old mock-
> ups. :D
>
>
>
>
>




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>Depending on the size of the fabric, I have actually taped muslin to a
>piece of copy paper and run it through the copier where you put in
>cardstock (so it goes straight through and doesn't roll over the bars)
>and have copied photos straight onto the fabric for a quilt that way.


Old quilter's trick.  Get plastic backed freezer paper (near the aluminum
foil in stores) and cut it to printer paper size.  With a dry iron, gently
iron you cloth to the plastic side of the paper--it will stick.  you can
then run it through your printer (I have just a cheapie inkjet--works
fine).  The cloth will peel right off the paper afterwards.

I highly doubt if this is washfast--haven't tried it to see.  But it's a
great way to transfer designs.

But I see that the original message was for a T-shirt.  I don't think that
would fit through the printer . . .

Ann in Florida

>    From: "cherchezunfemme" <smrutishah@...>
> How would one transfer those
> designs to a shirt?  I thought I could transfer it
> to carbon paper
> and try to iron it on to a shirt (or to a scarf for
> that matter.)

Hi-

I've been doing some hand embroidery on a vest, and
here's my method- it works pretty damn well,
especially for somebody who's never done it before.

Buy a pack of iron-on Tshirt transfer paper from
Walmart or an office supply store.  Get the cheapest
stuff you can find, since it won't show in the end.
On the computer, make a mirror image of the design you
want to transfer, and print it (in colour) onto this
paper (at the size you want).  Iron the transfer paper
onto your fabric.  Most cheap transfer paper does a
really crappy transfer, but it won't matter in the
end.  All you really need is to be able to see the
shape of your design.

When it's printed, make sure you cut out the design
exactly.  The paper will tell you to leave an inch or
so of blank paper all around the printed area, but
ignore this or you'll have shiny plastic-looking iron
on paper bits outside your embroidery.  Follow the
other instructions for ironing.  Once the design is on
your fabric, you can do a sort of paint-by-numbers
style embroidery.  All you have to do is make sure you
cover all the printed area.  I've done some
complicated designs using this method, and it makes
things very easy.  And as a bonus, the weight of the
transfer paper acts like interfacing to stiffen the
embroidered area.

I have a picture of some embroidery I'm doing on a
vest if you want to see
http://silivren.com/celegorm.jpg
(I'm still in the process of outlining everything in
black, so it looks a bit funny right now.)

Another thing you'll want to do... if you're not too
familiar with hand embroidery, check out some books
from the library or take a look at some online
tutorials for information on the different stitches
you may need to use.

Kate

Kate's Costume Site:
http://silivren.com

I am addicted to fabric.






__________________________________________________________
Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca

--- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, "Kate A. D." <dallinka@y...>
wrote:
> >    From: "cherchezunfemme" <smrutishah@h...>
> > How would one transfer those
> > designs to a shirt?  I thought I could transfer it
> > to carbon paper
> > and try to iron it on to a shirt (or to a scarf for
> > that matter.)


one way i do it is on reg paper, I draw out the design (make sure its
in graphite and dark) then put design side down (on the fabric) and
color over the lines on the opisite side, then the graphite should
transfer to the fabric, where it didn't transfer you didn't put enough
pressure on it. hope this helps!

Lots of ideas that will work, but I refuse to work harder than I have to.  Take
the enlargement that you've made on the copy machine - lay a piece of bridal
tulle over it (the soft stuff we make veils out of, not the stiff stuff we use
to poof out bell skirts) and tape it in place so it doesn't shift around.  Take
a black sharpie pen and trace over all the lines.  Toss the copy paper away. 
Now you've got a permanent, flexible, reversible pattern.

Lay the tulle pattern on your fabric and trace back over the lines with chalk or
a quilting marker (they come in either air or water soluble an in several
colors).  The pattern lines show up no matter what color the fabric is
underneath and you can see the details of the fabric - perfect if you don't want
the flower to end up on a seam.  To get a mirror image, just turn the tulle
over, the pattern is visible on both sides of the tulle.  If your design area is
in a place where you are - shall we say 'well curved' then you can put the
garment on and pin or tape the tulle pattern in place and it will curve to match
your shape, and you can see exactly where the embroidery will hit your body. 
I'm a 44DD, so I have to watch out for how a design hits my bustline.

The best part?  When I'm done, I fold up the pattern and put it away.  I've got
patterns that are over 15 years old that are still in perfect shape, and some of
my teaching designs have been used 20-30 times.

Hope that helps,
Carolyn




   >    From: "cherchezunfemme" <smrutishah@...>
   > How would one transfer those
   > designs to a shirt?  I thought I could transfer it
   > to carbon paper
   > and try to iron it on to a shirt (or to a scarf for
   > that matter.)

   Hi-

   I've been doing some hand embroidery on a vest, and
   here's my method- it works pretty damn well,
   especially for somebody who's never done it before.

   Buy a pack of iron-on Tshirt transfer paper from
   Walmart or an office supply store.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The brass I have acquired it from a retailer of metals for industry.
I have cut with scissors for metals. The cutting edges I have them
folds with one clamp to you. E' already I polish. I have made it
old. Under the armor I have glue of the skin chamois (animal):-D.

By by
Gilraen
Onen i-estel Edain
U-chebin estel anim

--- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, "Mentor, Nelly A."
<nelly.mentor@i...> wrote:
> Yes, that make's sense since it shone like a metal.  Did you find
the
> brass at an art store or is it the kind used for building
construction?
> Did you file down the edges of the scales?  Cutting them would
leave
> them sharp otherwise. And did you spray paint on it or polished the
> brass very well?
>
> What did you use to do the under-skin of the armor, heavy fabric or
> leather?
>
> Thanks for answering my questions!  Your technique might come in
handy
> for other projects requiring metal sheets.
>
> Nelly
>
> Message: 9
>    Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 23:29:59 -0000
>    From: dany_1954
> Subject: Re: Gilraen's elven armor
>
> Excuse I have mistaken, are sheets of brass.
>
> Gilraen
> Onen i-estel Edain
> U-chebin estel anim
>
>
> --- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, dany_1954 <no_reply@y...>
wrote:
> > I try to speak simpler. The sheets of copper have been fixed
with
> > glue and rivet(cup head), on support in skin. If you have other
> > questions you also ask to me. I will try to make of my best in
> order
> > to explain.
> >
> > Gilraen
> > Onen i-estel Edain
> > U-chebin estel anim
>
>
>
>
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Yes it's quite simple.  You mark all the seams with a pen.  Then use
a stitch ripper to take it appart.  Then copy the fabric pieces onto
paper including you sewing lines, and then you have a paper
pattern.  Useful method, has been around since mass production of
patterns.  Hint.  If your mock up pattern pieces are small, I just
use paper towel.  Great for trying differnet collars, small bodices,
gloves, etc.  The paper towel works just like fabric.
Johanna
--- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, "nmentor467"
<nelly.mentor@i...> wrote:
> That's interesting idea.  Maybe the technique's on the Net
> somewhere...
>
>
> --- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, Anna <aeronelaine@y...> wrote:
> > Cotton mock ups can be turned into paper, too, but I'm not sure
> how.  My fiber arts teacher mentioned that, but we didn't try it.
> >
> > nmentor467 <nelly.mentor@i...> wrote:One of the reasons why I
try
> to use non-synthetic fabric is so I can
> > throw the scraps into the compost pile for next year's veggies!
> >
> > Nelly
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Yahoo! for Good
> >  Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have used a glue adapted to the skin and metal.
In USA it marks it of the glue does not exist.
By

Gilraen
Onen i-estel Edain
U-chebin estel anim


--- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, "Jess" <D_ScullySA@h...> wrote:
> --- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, dany_1954 <no_reply@y...> wrote:
> > The brass I have acquired it from a retailer of metals for
industry.
> > I have cut with scissors for metals. The cutting edges I have them
> > folds with one clamp to you. E' already I polish. I have made it
> > old. Under the armor I have glue of the skin chamois (animal):-D.
> >
> > By by
> > Gilraen
> > Onen i-estel Edain
> > U-chebin estel anim
>
> I so want to make this armour sometime! and yours looks great!
perhaps
> I'll take hints... ;) did you use special glue for attatching the
> chamois? but thats a great idea for hiding sharp and ugly edges...

Sure, I would use chalk so that I can just brush it away when I'm done.
  BTW - I don't use a chalk pencil, just regular chalk that I cut at angle
with a pair of scissors to get an edge.

Carolyn
---------
---------


That ingenious Carolyn! Would it also work on fussy fabrics like
velvet?


> Lay the tulle pattern on your fabric and trace back over the lines
with chalk or a quilting marker (they come in either air or water
soluble an in several colors).

dany_1954 wrote:
> I have used a glue adapted to the skin and metal.
> In USA it marks it of the glue does not exist.
> By
>
> Gilraen

	 So Jess, (or anyone else) go to <http://www.thistothat.com/> and plug
in 'leather' and 'metal' and see what products come up. If you know the
specific type of metal (brass, bronze, aluminum....) dunno if it makes a
difference.

	 -Judy

Thank you, Ally!

I used a rolled hem foot, and a zig-zag stitch... I have a tutorial
with notes, some photos, and tips on my LBG Construction page, here:
http://www.yvettes.net/LBGConstruction.html

Yvette
http://www.yvettes.net/NimrodelsRiverGownConstruction.html
(Nimrodel Gown: Concept to Beginning Construction)
http://www.yvettes.net/NimrodelsRiverGownConstruction2.html
(Nimrodel Gown: Continuing Construction)

--- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, "ally_elizabeth9007"
<ally_elizabeth9007@y...> wrote:

>
> OMG! That dress is GORGEOUS! how did you do the wavy hems?
> -ally