Hi... I have a top with a similar neck to this dress. Basically, you
do the neckline wide as you want it, the sew a wide rectangle round
the neck edge. You sew it on inside out, so that when you fold it
down, it's the right way. Then, I think, you gather the sides of the
neck piece, and voila. OK, sorry about the fuzzy explanation.
Marina



--- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, "Jess" <D_ScullySA@h...> wrote:
> okay I'm finally getting to my fav gowns the hope dress as one of
> them,  so first question,  any ideas how to do the cowle? or do I
just
> have to play?  and with the sleeves, can georgette 8mm hold that
much
> beads, or should I line it with somthing like poly chiffon so  it's
> still sheer, but it's stablized etc and less scratchy on the arms?
and
> are we sure that it's sequins as the stems or are they bugle beads
or
> seed beads?  and if it's sequins, are the iredescent or just clear,
or
> perly white?  sorry for all the questions,  just had a panic attack
> last night when i was doing the mock for this dress. thanks! ;)

I realized the other day that I had posted any of my recent costumes
here.  Been so caught up with working on them and my other duties,
that I totally forgot.

Northern Ranger:
Decided to do this from a converstation on another group.  Tried to
fit the book description (though it wasn't much.  Something like they
wore mostly black and grey and a few other small details).  So I had a
pretty open book to work with.  I took some cues from
Aragorn/Boromir/Faramir.

Tunic
Since I couldn't find a grey that I liked, I went with a light greyish
blue.  The only problem I have with the tunic is that the armscye
wasn't big enough, but I don't have the time or money right now to
fix.  That's for next year. So here's is my much loved, yet flubed
tunic. I didn't quite have enough fabric, so I had to add a seam to
the sleeves, but I think it turned out quite nice.  The clasp is
actually a bracelet closuer that I beat up and painted.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Ranger/tunic.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Ranger/tunicsleeveseams.j\
pg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Ranger/tunicneck.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Ranger/shirtclasp.jpg


Mirkwood Noble:
This started out as a Mirkwood Archer, but changed into a noble when I
saw how much time the arrows and quiver of my Ranger costume took.
The costume is based off of a rejected design for Arwen.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Mirkwood/arwenridingoutfi\
t2.jpg

Overshirt
This is made from a dark green flannel and a golden silk essence.  The
flannel was bought at Wal-mart for 3 dollars a yard and the silk was
3.99 a yard.  For this I used Simplicity 5347 (looks like it's OOS).
I lengthed the shirt and shortened the sleeves.  I also cut a section
out of the back and replaced it with the gold fabric.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Mirkwood/mirkwood.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Mirkwood/mirkwoodback.jpg

Undershirt
Since I  couldn't figure out how to get the long sleeves and short
sleeves without having the arm hole overly bulky, leaving me no arm
movement, I created an under shirt for attaching the long sleeves to.
  I had to create a sleeve pattern of my own for this.  I took two
different patterns McCall's 4592 and Simplicity's 4744. I used the top
of the sleeve from the McCall's (since I will be using that top for an
under shirt. It was the only way I could figure out how to so the
sleeves and not have to do something crazy) and the glove/sleeve from
the Simplicity for the point. I had to widen both a bit since I have
somewhat large arms.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Mirkwood/undermirk1.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Mirkwood/undermirk.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Mirkwood/mirkpoint.jpg
and the pattern for the arm:
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Mirkwood/pattern.jpg

Skirt
Don't have any pics of this yet.  I'm still working on it.  I just
used one of my spare Simplicty patterns around for it, can't remember
the number.  Will have the number with the pics!

Crown
This is the piece I love the most.  Since I decided to change the
character to a noble, I had to make up a circlet for me to wear.  I
have just made a simple twisted wire base and am going to attach some
seed and fiber optic beads on it.  Going to try for something like one
of Arwen's.

The green stuff in the front is Gallery Glass paint in Ivy/Kelly Green
mix.  I had to cover my bad wire job.  The drops are made from
green/goldish green/gold seed beads, yellow green square glass beads,
green fiber optic beads, and yellow green round glass beads, with some
irridesant bicone and seed beads.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Mirkwood/Crown/crown3.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Mirkwood/Crown/crown2.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Mirkwood/Crown/crown.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Mirkwood/Crown/crownsidef\
inished.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Mirkwood/Crown/crownfront\
.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Mirkwood/Crown/crownclose\
up1.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Mirkwood/Crown/crownbackf\
inished.jpg



Earendil
http://www.earendilscloset.devilishlydeliciousdolls.com/ Some pic
links down since I'm moving everything.

Replying to my own post cause I totally forgot the other parts of this
costume!

Ranger Armor:
Was made with McCall's 4696 .  The material is a whipser black vinal
that I picked up at JoAnn's Fabrics This is an older pic of my
corset/armor.  But I do have it all sewn together with lining. I still
haven't added the grommets, because I hope and pray that I loose
weight before the con.  I still need to destress all of it! WOOT!
Means a lot of beating and rolling around in the mud! I can't wait!
*Can't tell that I'm a tom-boy can yea!*  The white tree pattern is
from here
http://www.forodrim.org/gobennas/heraldry/heraldry.htm#Third_Age
decided to not go with the Gondor one.  I used a mix of silver gel pen
and paint pen.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Ranger/rangerfront.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Ranger/rangerback.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Ranger/armor.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Ranger/design.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Ranger/armorgrommets.jpg
and since I didn't have my DTD, my bear (Snape) stood in.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Ranger/snapefront.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Ranger/armorsnape.jpg

Quiver/arrows:
Base is bristol board over which I paper mached and then covered with
black flet with layers of Mod Podge and paint over it. The arrows are
simple dowel rods that have been paint stained and then I attached
peacock feathers (this one is in the wrong direction) for the
fletching and wrapped gold DMC embroidery thread around it.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Ranger/quiver.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Ranger/quiver1.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Ranger/quiverupright.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Ranger/arrow.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/Earendilscloset/Ranger/arrowtip.jpg

The cloak isn't quiet done yet, plus it's hard to take a pic that
doesn't look like a huge black lump!

Earendil (who's done this time!)






--- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, "earendilgrey" <Eponine_80@y...>
wrote:
> I realized the other day that I had posted any of my recent costumes
> here.  Been so caught up with working on them and my other duties,
> that I totally forgot.
>
> Northern Ranger:
> Decided to do this from a converstation on another group.  Tried to
> fit the book description (though it wasn't much.  Something like they
> wore mostly black and grey and a few other small details).  So I had a
> pretty open book to work with.  I took some cues from
> Aragorn/Boromir/Faramir.

--- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, "dermawoman" <smkwandr@r...> wrote:
> Could someone please direct me to a pattern drafting website or a
book on basic pattern drafting?!

I rather like the Costume Technician's Handbook, by Rosemary Ingham
and Liz Covey, which I was able to order through B&N not too long ago,
I think it is still in print. It has measurements to body block, plus
all sorts of sewing and construction techniques.
I also got How To Make Sewing Patterns by Donald H. McCunn through the
Crafter's Choice book club, and I think I've seen it on the shelf
someplace (ISBN 0-932538-00-2) It's geared toward munderwear, but it
has all the basics on turning measurements into a basic pattern, and
then a certain amount of fitting and styling stuff to take you forward.

> I got the front and back yokes of Grey Gandalf's robes drafted, simply
> by sticking muslin on my husband (when he was wearing thermals--sorry,
> no hot wizard photos!) and drawing on it with fabric ink pens, then
> remeasuring and redrafting.

great! that's called Draping. You're on your way! That's no different
from how the pros do it in costume shops. (although we often have less
access to the actual person, and have to use a dress form instead)

> But math and geometry are not my strengths, and I have a pointed yoke
> (possibly a 45-degree angle from an across-the-chest line) and a
> semi-circular back yoke--into which loads of box pleats and extra
> fabric for gathering under the sleeve have to be fitted.  I know I
> need to draw an "exploded" pattern, with all the pleats flattened and
> the gathered fabric stretched out, and I really don't want to screw up
> the armscye, because I need to fit the sleeve in and it has box
> pleats too.

Are you sure there are pleats in the armscye? I admit I haven't
studied this costume in as much detail as you certainly have... but
when I have been around a costume that was being made for a show with
a pleat proposed in the armscye, it always ended up being removed
before the final garment was made. I guess it just makes too much bulk
in an area where it's not really wanted.

> Should I sew a couple chunks of muslin together (to duplicate the
> width of my 'good' fabric) and just mark and sew the pleats, calculate
> the gather quotient of the 'good' fabric, 'explode' the lower armscye,
> lay the yoke over it, add 5/8's seam allowance, and cut?  Or is there
> a better, faster way?

that's basically it, you take the approximate finished looking shape
and explode it. Depending on how you want it to hang, or how you want
to use the fabric, etc. you can explode for the pleats the same amount
from top to bottom, or flare the explosions a little toward the hem,
which will gradually curve your body piece, and change the way the
fabric hangs a little as it goes off grain. Again, you have probably
studied this costume closely enough to see whether the pleats all hang
on the straight grain (my first guess). You will notice when you have
slashed and spread to make the pleats, or especially if you drape the
pleats, then unfold the draped muslin, that the top edge of the piece
isn't a straight line, but zigzags a little back and forth as the tops
of the pleats go back and forth up the slope of the yoke.

Hope this helps!
S

Yay! My archer friend on the message board responded already! she says:

"No, do not boil the leather, but it should be tanned, and not
rawhide. Fletching them with leather is the same as fletching with
feathers, you just use shaped pieces of leather instead of feathers.
It is not possible to wrap the leather with thread, however, in the
same manner as the feather-fletched arrows.

Leather is heavier so will affect the arrow's flight. I would keep the
pieces fairly small. I know crossbowmen that fletch their quarrels
with leather, but I have never known an archer to fletch arrows with
it, though technically it is possible to fletch an arrow with leaves
or anything light and flexible, so long as you have an adhesive or
method to hold the material to the shaft of the arrow.

Use a standard fletching jig to space the fletches on the shaft
properly, just like feathers.

hope this helps."

>>Thank-you-thank-you-thank-you!!!  Which book do you think is better?
I've draped stuff before;



The Elizabethan book is just a start to get used to not using patterns or
combine with basic garments.



The Costume Technician's handbook is just a very quick summary of how to
work with measurements.  You still need to check and adjust it on person.



On line, I like this:
http://www.vintagesewing.info/1940s/42-mpd/mpd-toc-long.html BUT  you may
feel you're in over your head.  (Also check out other publication on that
site, it's got some amazing educational resources).



Remember, this is not a skill that you're going to pick up over night, or
something from a chapter in a book.  You can start that way... but classes
on drafting can be multi semester and those books will cost hundreds of
dollars.  Also, as you work, test, fail, redraft, you learn to judge and
estimate and recognize that a shape is wrong or how it needs tweak. So you
learn the raw bits... and then you have to develop the skills to go with it.



This is not to discourage you, just to let you know it's a long road and
going to take some work.  Don't get discourage.





As to pleats on Gandalf... the best place to see under arm (and it's been
too long for me to remember) is the opening of TTT.  Play the whole fall
scene backwards one frame at a time... or at least slow mow and you'll see
everything..



-Cat-







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I put a couple a pics in "Jules" folder showing the pattern and
beginning weave for my Haradrim 2 costume.  You can also see the belt,
which is farther along.  It has to be done for Dragon Con, so I'm
picking up the pace a bit.  I am also making artifacts(decoration) and
bits for the armor, this time I'm using Aves apoxy sculpt, which may
interest those of you that use Sculpy.  The apoxy clay air dries and I
have been able to drill holes in it and sand and polish it(using a
Dremel), so some of you might want  to try it.  It's also very light,
great for using in armor.

Rug yarn, basket reed, leather lace, twine, and what ever else I can
find...using rug hook backing spray painted gold

http://www.avesstudio.com/Products/products.html I ordered it direct  , model
shops may carry it, I never saw it in Michael's or Hobby Lobby.  I use their
paper mache mix too

I know I still owe the list pictures of my sister's kid's dress with the
gore like the cranberry dress... but I'm still trying to get it back from
her.

Meanwhile... I found a picture of what's happening.
http://www.vintagesewing.info/1940s/4x-lgcm/lgcm-20.html#inverted   The
picture shows what's called an inverted pleat.  On the cranberry... instead
of it just being a pleat, a  narrow topped gore is inserted.

Hope this helps.

-Cat-



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi all,

Well, I'm pretty much finished with the Rohan arrows. I tried a couple
of ideas, and many thanks to all that gave me advice. The pics are in
the photo section under "Free and Dubh". The first design is basically
the leather fletched as one would a feathered vane. Then, looking at
the photo in the Weapons and Warfare book, I cut out an one-piece paper
pattern and then cut out the leather, wet it, and then sewed it around
the shaft and then glued the vanes together. Then I fitted a couple of
arrowheads I got from By The Sword. I did do a test throw and the
arrows did pretty good. I wouldn't have thought of leather fletching,
but now for my Ranger Ren Faire costume I think that I will do a few of
this type.

Mirimaran

Hey, everyone! I just noticed a *very* small (almost stupid) detail
concerning the arm ties on Eowyn's gowns. The ties on the right arm are
distintivly longer than those on the left.

http://www.costumersguide.com/eowyn/ww_front.jpg
Also see that the ties on left are the same length, not so on the right.

http://www.costumersguide.com/eowyn/coat_front.jpg
The ones on the left (her left) are quite short, whereas on the right:
http://www.costumersguide.com/eowyn/coat_sleeve.jpg they are definetly
longer.

I havn't checked into the ties for the refugee or the shieldmaiden gown
yet, but I'll be looking when I watch the trilogy this weekended before
we go to the exhibit. :)

~The Renaissance Girl

"Catherine" <Pewterwoollocks@a...> wrote:
>   Hi I am new here

Hiya! ^__^ Welcome to the group! ^__^


> but could not help it when i saw Eowyns clothes
> being discussed.  I've started the archives but wanted to know
some
> of the sites to see her clothes and if there are any patterns
> available.    I love the shieldmaiden dress and vest and the
stable
> outfit.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

This ML is the discussion board for the ACS-LOTR Website. -__^
http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/


For the Eowyn Shieldmaiden Outfit, you can check out this page:
http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/Human/Eowyn/Shield.htm

For her Stable Outfit, do you mean the Refugee Outfit or Riding
Outfit?

Refugee Outfit
http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/Human/Eowyn/Refugee.htm

Riding Outfit
http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/Human/Eowyn/Riding.htm

As for any of the Eowyn costumes you're interested in, do check out
http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/makingem/Patterns/Humans.htm#Eowy
n for recommanded commercial patterns.

Good luck! ^__^

Fatimah

<<<I was wondering what other people have used to lace up the corset.
Thanks for the help! >>>

	 When my friend made this costume, she used leather for the
lacing. It worked out very well.

Cheers, Alison
------------------------------------------
http://www.starfirephoenix.net

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Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.8.8/37 - Release Date: 1/07/2005

Hi All!

I've finished and posted the photos of my Mirkwood Elf Cloak to go
with the Mirkwood Gown... (In spite of the chaos I'm in here at
home...!)I went with a take-off on Elrond's Gray...  and then
improvised... The photo log is here:

http://www.yvettes.net/MirkwoodElfCloakConstruction.html

and the pattern details (along with some good close up shots of the
harness...)are here:

http://www.yvettes.net/MirkwoodElfCloakPattern.html

Now, as before... I still need to get photos wearing the garb!
Cheers!
Yvette

Hi!
I made these boots from a pattern I had used before
for "Plains Indian Hi-Top Moccassins"  I'm sure you
can google for the distributor, "Crazy Crow"....the
pattern is very simple and can be easily modified to
have the uppers shaped like Arwen's boots, and to lace
in the back.  I just used paper bags as patterns for
the uppers and kept cutting until they were the right
size and overlap.  The toy was the best model....
Good luck & hope that helps!
Kestrel




__________________________________
Discover Yahoo!
Get on-the-go sports scores, stock quotes, news and more. Check it out!
http://discover.yahoo.com/mobile.html

Hi, what I did was I found a pair of cheap shoes that had soles in a shape that
I liked, and
then cut off the uppers leaving about a 1 inch bit of leather all the way
around. I then
made my uppers and hot glued them to the lip of the soles. Not the most secure
method,
but I was in a rush. Barge cement (do they still make that?) or seam grip (get
at any
outdoors store, probably any sporting store, and probably in camping section of
target/
walmart/etc - used to make seams on tents waterproof, repair holes in
wetsuits/fishing
waders, etc - it is excellent for EVERYTHING!) or any of these other super
strong, flexible
goos would work much better.I didn't actually use a pattern for the uppers; I
just wrapped
my feet in plastic bags and a lot of duct tape, and then cut that into the shape
that I
wanted, added a bit for seam allowances, overlap, etc. and used the duct tape
pieces as
my pattern.

Aya

--- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, sixpence@w... wrote:

> Has anyone here made Arwen's Chase boots?  Any tips, tricks,
> suggestions, etc.?  Actually, any boots making suggestions would be
> appreciated!  I've worked in leather many times before, but never
> footwear.
> My current plan is to modify this pattern...
> http://www.tandyleather.com/prodinfo.asp?
> number=603500&variation=&aitem=3&mitem=8
> ...and attach the uppers to existing soles.  Any ideas how one would
> go about the attaching process?
> Thanks in advance for your help!
> Jessica

When you paint the design, make sure you first mix the silver paint
with fabric medium. This will make it so the paint dries softer and
more flexible, so it won't be so likely to crack as the fabric moves
under it. Also it won't be so cardboardy on the soft fabric.

"montagar3" <allmyforums@h...> wrote:
> I searched the web for some pics of silk velvet and it does look like
> that might be it. :)

The one they used at the LOTR Exhibition is a more "complex" Silk
Velvet. It "seems" smooth on one side but the other side
is "embrossed" or crushed.

As for color, it's close to the Arwen Coronation Gown Jumper but a
tone more blue if I remember correctly. Think the color name is "Sea
Green"? But not sure if this is the same cloth used in FOTR (ROTK one
seems Midnight Blue like Arwen's Narsil Reforge Cloak) tho' it does
look Bluish-Grey under certain lightings.

Whatever color you choose, just go ahead with it as due to all the
color filter/correction done in the movie, can't be too sure what is
the original color till we see it under normal lighting. -__^

Unless the FOTR EE Gallery has a picture of the display under normal
lighting......

Fatimah

The sword rests on ice blue silk velvet when we see it in the first
film, but apparently Elrond has tidied up and we see it on black silk
velvet in the third movie, before it's going to be reforged ;)
Ela

--- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, "Jess" <D_ScullySA@h...> wrote:
> hello, I am making the hope dress and I was wondering if metallic
> thread and/or beads dye?

If you've got light colored beads that are made out of any kind of
plastic/non-glass material, and the metallic thread is a synthetic you
may have a bit of color added to them from the dyebath -- especially
if you are using a very dark or vibrant dye that is like Rit.  I'm not
sure if fiber reactive dye would affect the color of plasticy things,
but I know for sure that Rit will tint nearly anything if you use a
strong enough dye bath.

If your beading thread is a poly blend (with cotton as many are), it
may dye streaky. Same if the core of the metallic thread is cotton.

The bullion embroidery on a lot of the LoTR costumes was "antiqued"
with overdying if I remember correctly, so even real metals may tint.

You can always test a little scrap since you're not sure, just so you
don't end up with yards of something you may potentially hate!

Hi first test a piece of your fabric for shrinkage using the dye
directions.  If you have very little, mark out your pattern pieces you
are going to embroider on the fabric.  Do all the beading and
embroidering before you cut out.  This way you can place it into a
large frame without falling off the edge, having your fabric ravel as
you try to work with smaller bits etc.  If you have a large frame you
can bead and embroider at a much faster rate using tambouring hooks.
When you have finished all the surface detailing, cut out the pieces,
ziz zag right away, and then you work with them as you would any other
fabric pieces. Hint do not embroider or bead into your seam areas.  Do
not cut off your knotted ends when you are cutting out your pieces.
If the fabric shrinks you will have to wait until after you have dyed
it before you came mark out the patterns.  Embellishments would be
affected by the shrinkage and look distorted.
Johanna
and one more question, should I cut then
> bead/emb? or bead/emb then cut?  and if it's the latter how can I do
> that w/o my beading and emb falling apart on me?  thanks!

I have "painted" plastic beads with success, I mix a bit of (craft) varnish with
the paint to give it a wash rather than solid color, of course if its tiny beads
and you're doing a lot of them, they would stick together ;)

> hello, I am making the hope dress and I was wondering if metallic

> thread and/or beads dye?



I have had RIT dyed metallic tissue lame.  I wasn't planning to wash the
fabric afterwards, but I did rinse it to get the extra dye out and the
color stayed on during that one washing.



What I am going to suggest you do is make a small sampler(s) (2x2") of
the fabric/threads/beads etc that you are using.  Then try dyeing the
sample(s) and washing them out, and see what happens to them.  This is a
lot easier then working for ages on the real thing and then having a
dyeing disaster.



One warning, the real metal bullion will tolerate heat, but if the
metallic threads are polyester/plasticy type, you should let your dye
water be hot but not at boiling since the threads will melt and distort.
Again, practicing in a small way on small samples can be a real help.  I
have an old pint sized enameled cooking pot that I use to experiment
with.  I picked it up at a thrift store and NEVER use it for food. (Dye
poisons pots!!!).



BTW if you use pots to dye in, get enameled ones, since metal interacts
with the dye and changes its color.  Also NEVER use the pot for food
again (poison!!!).  That is why thrift stores and garage sales are your
friend!



(OH, don't forget to throw in salt with the Rit dye, it helps to get the
color to stick).



Susan



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>>Interesting. If it's the same on all of them, that can't be
an accident.



I was just rereading some things on fittings in the Costume Technician's
Handbook... it reminds to check each sleeve separately on final fittings and
hemming.... it says that both arms will be different lengths... and that
shook out the cobwebs of out da brain and reminded me of my own experiences
from quick fitting extras from a couple of decades ago... the width of the
arm, especially upper arm can be different.



We use are arm's differently, being left and right handed.  One arm can
build up more muscles...  I got curious and had my sister check her arm (she
has two kids and carries them on the left hip almost all the time.)  About
3/4 of an inch different... because of kid lifting.  And the biggest case
from way back was someone who stocked shelves and used one arm to lift the
other to push.  I forget how different her arms were... but there wasn't
enough seam allowance... (Had to stitch in a strip.)


>>I was having an interesting discussion with my mother about a
possible emic [within her own culture] explanation for Eowyn's
sleeve
ties.



My guess on how the ties got started... is more like they were a fitting
tool since Eowyn doesn't have 2 part sleeves in most cases.  Sleeves could
be cut wide and then just cinched in.  In the later dresses, like
coronation, they may have been added just to match the style.  They give
interesting (and inexpensive) detail to the top third of the costume...
which is where the most detail should be placed.



Hey, what can I say... having done enough behind the scenes work... I think
of things in terms of fitting and time and (original) budget.  Costumer's
are never given enough time for fittings in movie productions... and you
learn techniques to fudge... though I have to admit that  the skirt
fitting/hemming was a wonderful way... and it makes such beautiful skirts.



-Cat-

rambling far too much... but celebrating having just conquered part of one
more real life mess.   Yes, there is light in the tunnel now... so what if
it's a train? I love the light I can get right now!









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Hey! I was just at JoAnn's little over a week ago and found this
wonderful fabric. Its just called "faux suede" in "brown". Its a
chocolate color, and already has a padding in it, so I don't have to
spend extra money on that! All you have to do is quilt it. It's $3.48
on clearance. Just thought to let you know!
                        ~Addie

I posted some pictures of my finished chase dress a couple of months
ago, but since then I've tweaked it a bit and got some (much!)
better
pictures taken. Scroll down near the bottom of this page and look for
the photos taken outside:

http://www.thevlecks.net/rmj/costuming/arwen.html

I have found one photo supporting my idea that there are no pleats on
the side of Gandalf's robe - go to this site and look at the one of
Gandalf turning while he is holding the book in Moria:

http://us.imdb.com/gallery/ss/0120737/Ss/0120737/jnts_0031.jpg?
path=gallery&path_key=0120737

The best one is still eluding me tho - will continue looking.

Janice Bennett wrote:
> I have found one photo supporting my idea that there are no pleats on
> the side of Gandalf's robe
> The best one is still eluding me tho - will continue looking.

	 A good place to look, if you can pause and zoom in (or screencap) is
during the fight with the balrog. He has his arms up and there are
angles where sometimes you can see beneath his arm at the side. My pic
is cropped a little too tight to tell much, though.

	 -Judy

>> I know the real one used elastic bands to
attch the crown to the wig, but I am going to wear it on my real hair,
and I have no idea how to go about making sure it doesn't fall off or
move around too much. Any help would be great! Thanks,



Clear plastic combs can be attached with the elastic too and then arrange
more hair over.  Or if you don't want to get that complicated... a few bobby
pins... and just don't jump up and down a lot.



-Cat-







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